I'm one of those strange people who likes most airports, the San Francisco airport being my favorite. It always has some interesting exhibits and is new and modern. My husband hates airports. I think the reason I like airports is because I am a wanderer at heart. And when I want to see my German family and friends, I have to fly for many hours. When my mother needed  help in her last years, I became a frequent flyer, enjoying the perks that come with it. However, now I'm back to normal, with no more free upgrades or airport lounges. I am still able to fly and that is great. Who is complaining, certainly not me, no way, I still get to go. I am sitting in the back of an airplane, my tush is hurting and the person next to me is too large for the cramped seats. But when I land, I will be in one of my favorite spots on this planet—Hawaii. I have been visiting the different islands for the past 30 years whenever time and money allow us to do so. My husband is a genius at finding reasonably priced flights and accommodations. It must be his Dutch and Scottish genes. Lucky me, I get to enjoy the benefits.

The Hawaiian Islands are a great getaway and have some of the most beautiful scenery that I have ever seen. The beaches are pristine, the water is warm and clean. One can swim with huge turtles and see tropical fish and whales, The warm climate with its cooling trade winds is almost perfect. Each island has its own identity. I love Kauai, the garden island, because it is the least populated and has the most spectacular sites of all, but I enjoy all the other islands as well. The culture of the Hawaiian Islands today is a colorful mix of culture and ethnicity.

This trip brought us to Maui for a week, Maui being one of the world’s most popular islands. When I first went to Maui many years ago, it had not yet exploded with condos and luxury hotels. Every time I come, there is ever more building. One of my favorite hotels is not going to be there much longer for me, because it is being converted into luxury condos that I cannot afford. Makena Beach, not far from the end of the road along the southwestern coastline, will still be there. For me, this beach is one of the most beautiful places on earth. Maui has other beautiful beaches as well, and all beaches in Hawaii have public access, which usually means there is a parking lot with restrooms and showers.

The islands have something for everyone and many choices .Spending time on the beach and swimming in warm water is something I love to do, as long as I have some shade. However, I’m fair skinned and even in the shade, I have to limit my time in the sun. I learned that the hard way. I love to explore the countryside and spectacular valleys.  There are are small towns in the Up Country that are fun and have different things to offer. 

Then there is the volcanic crater of Haleakala (House of the Sun in Hawaiian) which is home to Haleakala National Park. The summit peaks at more than 10,000 feet above sea level, a breathtaking spot from which to watch the sunrise, when a starry sky fills with color and the crater floor glows a deep red. To do so, you have to leave at 3 am, which takes true devotion. On the way down, you will pass through as many as ten distinct micro-climates. On this trip, we choose not to go all the way up but instead went to Makawao, a charming little cowboy town with a Japanese bakery that hasn't changed in fifty years. The sidewalk outside is dated 1943. My sweetie gets his donuts there to take along. I like the library there and always peek in. You might run into Willie Nelson because he lives up there. The reason I go to Makawao is to have lunch at the Hali’imaile General Store, a must for me when I am in Maui.

Another great restaurant on the other side of Maui, near Lahaina, the old whaling town, is Star Noodles a great restaurant where you can experience the new Hawaiian fusion cuisine. They are always full, so I go for a late lunch or order take out to eat when I watch the sunset over the ocean. After all, Hawaii is known for its spectacular sunsets. One of my favorite spots to watch the sunset is at the Sheraton at Kaanapali, north of Lahaina. There is a bar near the beach and when sunset comes, you will hear about the old Hawaii. At sunset, a young man carries a torch up to Black Rock from where he jumps into the ocean

Another nice spot to watch the sunset is in Wailea, where you can have great food and drinks (check for half-price happy hour) in a restaurant called Migrant, in the Marriott Hotel.

My favorite drink this time was named “57 Chevy with Hawaiian license plates.” Warning, one will be plenty! It is a good one to share. Of course there always is the Mai Tai. Remember Elvis in Blue Hawaii? “Aloha” is the Hawaiian greeting that expresses mutual love and the spirit of these beautiful islands and their people.

For the last three years, my husband and I have taken a trip to Europe in November. The tourist crowds are gone and the flights and hotels are much cheaper. On the flip side, the days are shorter and the weather colder. I don't mind cold as long as it doesn't rain. I wouldn't do the countryside, but the big cities are fun. I enjoy going to the different Christmas markets and museums. We started doing this when my mother was still alive and I was visiting her as often as I could. This year, we went for ten days, spending a long weekend with my German family and friends—and four days in Berlin.
My husband and I flew into Frankfurt and took the train to Berlin, which is easy and provides a  scenic tour through Germany. I love trains and take them whenever I can. The Frankfurt airport is like a second home to me (just kidding but almost). There are two train stations, a local one and one for long distances. The Fernbahnhauf (long-distance railroad station) is where I usually take the train to my village or other European cities. It's attached to the airport and is easily reached. The ICE is the fast train, and a ride to Berlin is only three and half hours. I don't like changing trains when I have luggage, and this year we had too much luggage with lots of gifts and goodies for my family and friends. Each time I promise myself not to do it, but I always end up with too much stuff. After I give away the gifts, I buy things like chocolate, marzipan, some vinegars and spices or some cute handmade Christmas ornaments for my friends

Last year, we took an old Hungarian train from Berlin to Prague. It was an enchanting trip, with the old-fashioned train that went through some gorgeous countryside including the Elbe river valley and mountains. The train ride itself was a real highlight of the trip, which continues on to Budapest. I enjoyed Prague last year, but what I didn't enjoy was the Nürnberg Christmas market, which was totally overrun with tourists.

Germany is known for its coffee culture. In the afternoon, you have coffee and cake. Friends meet in favorite cafés and have something sweet with coffee or tea. When my mother was sick, I often brought cake to the nurses and and they loved it. As a child, if we didn't always have sweets, instead I would have a piece of bread with butter and jam. Birthdays are also often celebrated by being invited zum Kaffeetrinken (which literally means you are invited for coffee and cake). My girlfriend had bought some gorgeous cake from my favorite bakery (here is the link), my favorite being a Sara Bernhardt cake (named for a French actress). After a few hours of talking and having fun, dinner or Abendbrot (as it is called in German) was served. She made a very tasty sweet potato soup followed by a chicken salad with bread, cheese, olives, as well as some ham and lox. It was divine. My brother had a similar but larger party the following day in the local pub. We had sheet cake for coffee around three in the afternoon and later a German-style charcuterie. Fresh homemade wurst, ground raw pork tartar, and cooked bacon served with sauerkraut and fresh bread—a real country feast— washed down with beer, schnaps and a herbal digestive. 
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I had to say goodbye too soon to the ones I loved and take the train to Frankfurt am Main (there are two Frankfurts in Germany) to catch a flight back home the next day. Frankfurt also has a Christmas market around the Altstadt (the old town). The old town center is the Römer, a medieval building that has been the city hall for over 600 years. The Römer is opposite the old St. Nicholas church. On the Römerplatz, as it is called, I ate a delicious goose leg with red cabbage and potato dumplings at the restaurant Schwarzer Star (black star) and it was delicious. My husband's spätzle (homemade noodles) was also superb. What a great way to end a beautiful vacation.

Berlin has been part of my life for a long time. I was 14 when I visited Berlin the first time, the youngest in a youth group. We stayed in a youth hostel and the older students showed me the town both day and night. I remember climbing around in the ruins of the Gedächniskirche and getting frostbitten in my toes. It was my introduction to life in a big city. I lived on Berliners (fresh donuts filled with plum jam) and curry wurst. From the beginning, I appreciated and liked the sense of humor and dialect of the locals. Even the worst situations are turned into a joke.
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I visited Berlin many more times. It was fun once we got there, but the journey was scary. In the late 1960s, we could either go by train or on a chartered bus, or by private car. Going through the DDR (East Germany) was dangerous and as a German you could get arrested and disappear. Thinking back on it today, it was surreal. 
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Years ago, my family was separated when my husband and I took our just adopted 6-year-old son to Berlin. As we crossed the border into East Berlin, my son and husband (being American) crossed at checkpoint Charley and as a German, I had to cross at Friedrichsstraße. This prompted me to apply for American citizenship as soon as I returned to the States. 

Then in 1989, the wall came down. Berlin was free again and became the capital of the new united Germany. The old East Berlin was rebuilt. My husband and I prefer to stay in the Mitte, the center of the new Berlin near the Brandenburger Tor and Friedrichsstraße. One is within walking distance of many museums and other attractions.

If you decide to visit Berlin, you have to visit the Museum Island, a UNESCO heritage site. It is the home to the Pergamonmuseum, one of the world’s major archeological sites. You walk through a series of impressive huge structures of the partial reconstruction of the Greek Pergamon Altar (170-159 BC) with the two-story Roman Gate of Miletus and the Ishtar gate of Babylon. With a day ticket, you can see all the museums on that island. There are many more museums throughout Berlin. During our last visit, we decided to go the Gemälde Galerie , a wonderful collection of medieval Renaissance and early modern art housed in a low-key but tasteful setting. It was not crowded and the art was spectacular. Adjacent to the Gemälde Galerie is the Kunstgewebemuseum (Museum of Decorative Art). It houses world-famous examples of European arts and crafts.

As for food in Berlin, you will find everything. Berlin now is part of the international food scene. Right around the corner from our hotel was Galerie Lafayette, a branch of the luxurious Parisian department store. My husband, a francophile, was in heaven. My favorite department store and food mecca is the KaDeWe (the department store of the west) which is in the old West Berlin on the Kurfürstendamm. Over the years, it has lost some of the glamor but the food section is marvelous and you can buy anything you want for a high price. The restaurant on the top floor has a great view of Berlin, but the food is cafeteria-style and I prefer to have a light meal on the floor below. If you are not a vegetarian, you have to have a curry wurst on an outside stand with the locals. It is a sausage with curried spices and ketchup. In the summer, you have to drink a Berliner Weiße, beer mixed with sweet woodruff juice. It was November and cold, so we drank Glühwein  (mulled wine) instead. Late November and December are the months for goose: goose with cabbage and dumplings. I love it and my best goose meal has been in Potsdam, a 30-minutes train ride outside Berlin. This place is a small bakery that serves lunch. The goose is cooked fresh every day and it is delicious. 
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I love the Christmas market on the Gerdamen Platz, which makes for an enjoyable evening celebrating the season. The live performances are great and there is a lot of fun food. Several Berlin restaurants build huts with heat and great decorations. I enjoy this so much more than the large Christmas markets like Nürnberg

One night, we had dinner at Brechts, an Austrian restaurant with a great Wiener schnitzel. For me, it is all about the small delicatessen shops and bakeries. I found one right around the corner and had wild pig salami with fresh crusty bread and a fruit tart. There is no better dinner in my book. Oh, and let's not forget the bakeries with all their temptations  There are many little cafes where you can sit inside or outside (weather permitting) and have a treat in the late afternoon. I often call that dinner. My husband will not leave Germany without having his Schweine Haxe, (pig’s knuckle) and a large beer.  We always enjoy Berlin and I hope to visit there again soon.

 Île-de-Ré and Brittany

After a wonderful week in Paris, we caught the train to Rennes. Taking trains in France can be  somewhat nerve-racking. A billboard shows you the track the train will be arriving on 20 minutes before departure. After the announcement, everybody rushes up or down the assigned track, trying to find the right car where they have a reserved seat. In our case, the announcement wasn't made until 10 minutes before departure, so you can just imagine the pushing and shoving to  get onto the train. I almost lost my hubby because he is so polite, allowing people to pass. Once we arrived in Rennes, we rented a car and drove to the Île-de-Ré to visit friends who own a house on this gorgeous island. The island is connected to the mainland by a bridge. Our three-day stay was relaxing and fun. We went to the local market and bought fresh fruit, cheeses, oysters and fresh-caught fish. Our first meal on the island was mules frites (mussels and French fries). It was so much fun to have our friends show us this beautiful island. I bought a lot of different sea salts and brought them home.

After a short and sweet visit with our friends, we left for a three-hour drive to Quimper,  a picturesque town in Bretagne with cobblestone streets, shops and museums. Quimper is generally regarded as the cultural center of Brittany. Once a year, an annual festival celebrates the Breton Culture. From Quimper, we explored the surrounding area for the next three days.

Our first stop was Pont-Aven, an attractive little village best known for its  association with Paul Gauguin. Here we had breakfast, visited the local market and walked by some old mills. 

Point -Aven is a tourist destination, as is Corncarneu, our next stop. We did not stay very long because it was simply too touristy for us. Our next stop was Bénodet on the southern coast of Brittany. 
We took a nice stroll along the bay watching the sail boats and found a great place to have a wonderful lunch. We had fried fresh sardines on a bed of lettuce with tomato dip. My husband had a wonderful piece of white fish on top of a zucchini ragout with olives and capers in a tomato sauce. I had a most delicious scallop salad with prosciutto. I love the pink tails on the scallops.

After our great lunch, we decided to go for it and drove to Pointe du Raz, a promontory that extends into the Atlantic Ocean. This wild and windy point is one of Brittany's most popular natural sites. It has breathtaking cliff-top walks and white-washed houses nearby.

After our stay in Quimper, we drove to Cancale. Mention Cancale to a foodie and a quick reply will be "oysters," which have been cultivated here for hundreds of years. Originally, we were to meet some friends for a night but it didn't work out. All we had left were local oysters and crab. For our first course, we sat on a sea wall eating oysters we had  bought from one of a dozen vendors. It was a memorable experience eating these briny magnificent sea creatures, throwing the shells on the beach.

The next day, we drove to Rennes to drop off our car and take the train back to Paris, where we flew home the next morning. Don't ever assume that dropping off a car at the train station outside of Paris would be easy. We had no idea that the entire railroad station was a giant construction zone which made it a real challenge to drop off the car. I asked the lady at the counter if people had just abandoned their cars and taken a taxi to bring the key. She nodded yes. 

Traveling is always an adventure and life is good. Bon voyage .

We'll always have Paris

Traveling is adventure—it is exciting and puts you in a different frame of mind. It is exhilarating, and at times scary, and you hope everything will work out well in the end.  

I remember the moment I fell in love with Paris. It was decades ago. I was a young woman,  barely 21, when I went to Paris on a four-day weekend. I was living in Germany at the time. The two women I was with disappeared and I didn't see them until it was time to return home. I remember wandering the streets by myself and sitting in a sidewalk cafe. I don't remember where exactly, but I do remember the feeling of falling in love with the people, the charm and the ambiance of this beautiful city. To this day, my love affair with Paris continues even when a heat wave hits the city in summer—and with more and more tourists. 

Paris is a city for walkers and that's what we do when we  visit Paris.  For years we have copied  walks from a book called Walking Paris. The author takes you from place to place showing you everything you wanted to know about Paris: the oldest tree, a beautiful door, gypsy legends, medieval history, Hugo Victor’s house—you name it. These walks expose the soul of this charming city.

The Cafe Les Deux Magots in St.-Germaine-des Prés has the a drink called anis , a cousin of the pastis  without the alcohol that comes with a huge bucket of ice. A dream when the temperature hits 100 degrees. This cafe is on a  square that has the oldest church in Paris.  I always love to return to St. Germaine and visit old places and find new ones. This is a great place to get lost. 

 During the last two visits, we rented a lovely apartment with a view of Notre Dame. Even though we could see the hustle and bustle of that area, we felt separated from it. Our apartment was in the 5th arrondissement, bordering on the 6th. The river Seine was within spitting distance, as we could see Notre Dame from our living room window. There was a great bakery around the corner where I got croissants, a baguette and something sweet for my sweetie every morning. They also had fresh-pressed orange juice, and one day I bought a tomato zucchini tart for dinner that I hope to make soon. We could stroll by the river or go to Île St.- Louis to have an ice cream at Berthillon or a drink in one of the cafés. I love that location because I'm within walking distance of all of my favorite places. 

My absolute favorite book store in Paris is Shakespeare and Company. It is around the corner from Notre Dame next to a tiny park with the oldest tree.

One of the best ways to immerse yourself in French culture is with food. I always try to find new places. Because of the heat wave, we were not able to walk for miles, so we often took the metro. We planned something for the morning and then had a leisurely lunch that lasted a couple of hours. We preferred outside cafes. I found a couple of new places. My favorite one  was restaurant “Josehine Chez Dumonet”. This was also a favorite of Napoleon’s first wife, Josephine, hence the name. I had read that they had the best Beef Bourguignon and it was the best I ever tasted, even on a hot day. My sweetie had an outstanding piece of duck paté and my duck confit was superb. This was a memorable lunch, enjoying perfect french cuisine at an outside table watching life unfold. 

Another superb lunch was at Bon Marché, a wonderful large department store that had the best air conditioning on the day it was 104 degrees. The lunch in the food section (not in the restaurant) was fantastic. I had raviolis in a cream sauce with shaved truffles. I loved the entire food section of that store and was in no rush to return to the steaming heat outside. When we finally got the courage to go out, I found a great ice cream store, La Maison Du Chocolat.

Another day, we took a walk to explore an unknown passage. The passage was OK but we stumbled on a nice place to eat lunch. It was called Willi's Wine Bar and since my Willie loves wine, we had to go inside and talk to the proprietor, a nice English fellow with some great posters and a very good lunch menu. I had a half of a Cornish hen with nicely braised vegetables and Willie had to do another duck paté tasting with the appropriate wine, of course. 
So you see, even when there is a heat wave in one of your favorite city, you can still have a good time.

The Louvre had a special exhibit I was interested in, so I went early one morning and it was good. I enjoyed the art, except I was disappointed with the Mona Lisa, because you can barely see it—and the crowds are unbearable. I went to a couple of tiny museums and decided to go to my other favorite ones another time, so I can enjoy them. If you only have one time in Paris, don’t miss the D’Orsay and don’t worry about anything but the stunning art that this place offers.

I have a folder titled Paris and I have some wonderful books. My favorite is Walks in Paris by Giles Desmons. Like I said, this is one to take along on my favorite walks. My girlfriend gave me Paris, An Inspiring Tour of the City’s Creative Heart  by Janelle McCulloch. This is a beautiful book to read before you go, so copy the pages of the things you want to see. I have the Food Lover’s Guide to Paris by Patricia Wells. These days, I use different websites like David Lebovitz's site. I have more books, but I  would like to find some new ones from my blog buddies. So please let me know if you have some.

Even though I don't have small children, it would be fun to experience Paris from different children's books with Paris at the core. I'm thinking of Ludwig Bemelmann's  12 Little Girls in Two Straight Lines and Madeline. To introduce kids to Picasso and other artists, there is Paris in the Spring with Picasso by Joan Yolleck and Marjorie Priceman. When I was still teaching I had a whole series of books introducing painters and composers to the children. Maybe I will have to borrow one of my nephew's children to go to Paris.

A great way to see Paris, if you don't want to tackle the metro, is the double-decker L'Open Tour buses, which offer hop-on/hop-off service. I did this when my niece was 14 and I think she enjoyed it. 

With that, my dear blogger friends, forgive my photographs and I will blog about my second week in France soon. Please let me know what is your favorite place in Paris if you have on.

One day my niece took us on a lovely walk across the city. We went on a foot path above the town with some tiny parks and a great view of Stockholm and ended the walk along the river with boats that had been turned into hotels and a youth hostel. 

Our trip in October to Stockholm was unexpected. I loved it because I had my niece all to myself and didn't have to share her with the rest of the family. Our flight had a lay-over in Newark, New Jersey and  we had a great lunch at the Grant Central Station Oyster Bar. The original one in New York City being one of my favorites. Once we arrived in Stockholm we took the Arlanda Express, the fast train to town down Stockholm. The taxis in Stockholm are not controlled and can be astronomical expansive. The Arlanda Express is clean and has wifi. We were able to walk to our hotel which was convenient located near the old part of town. On the first night, after taking a nap, we took a nice walk through the old part of town. 
Here you find cafes restaurants and tourist stores. It gets much more interesting and local if you walk up the little side streets . It is here that we ate the next night. The restaurant "KRIP IN" was  recommended by an employer at our hotel. It served regional cooking at its best . My husband had venison, I had a delicious chanterelle salad  and my niece had a chanterelle soup. We  all shared  a local berry desert. 

Another day we took the trolly  to the Vasa Museum. Here you find a restored wooden war ship that sank on her maiden voyage in the Stockholm harbor in 1628. It is amazing to realize how much work and effort it took to restore this ship. I also loved the fantastic video display they had showing life around the world in 1628.  In my opinion the Vasa Museum is a must see when in Stockholm . I'm sorry I missed the  Pippi Longstocking Museum, Junibacken, my  beloved childhood character from Astrid Lindgren. 

During our time in Stockholm we also visited the royal  palace which is very nice except very often parts of the palace are closed if  there is some sort of State function. 

The Museum of Photographs was interested . I enjoyed the Smørbrød, an open sandwich I had in the Museum cafeteria . Here we had a nice chat with the locals. 

It was great to visit with my niece and get to see a city I've never been to.  I'm glad I decided to do this despite the long flight

We took two boat rides, one a city tour which was very nice and we saw the outer parts of Stockholm. We took another longer boat ride to Vaxholm, a cute little coastal town in  Stockholm's archipelago . It reminds me of Carmel in California . Unfortunately the bakery that was suppose to be outstanding was closed for the winter but fortunately we found a bistro with good food where we had lunch. 

The following day we reached our destination in Grindelwald, Switzerland. We love this place in the Bernese Alps with a spectacular mountain range that makes it one of the most impressive alpine landscapes in Europe. The Jungfrau and the Eiger north wall are the most well-known mountains.
We have stayed at the Kirchbühl apartments several times. The Kirchbühl is a family run hotel with apartments and houses to rent. I love this place. The location is great, above the village away from all the hassle and noise. The hotel has two restaurants that are quite good and offer a wonderful breakfast with chewy whole wheat bread, great croissants and the best Bicher Müsli. We always make sure that breakfast is included in the price of the apartment.  A dinner option is available that you can choose on a daily basis. They also surprise you with free afternoon tea or happy hour another day in their cozy hotel lobby. Frau Brawand, the owner, and the rest of the staff will make sure that you are well taken care of. In good Swiss style, the washer/dryer and wifi work great. And let's not forget the stunning views! Friends in the States thought I showed them  a painting on Skype. 

You come to Grindelwald to hike . My favorite hike is from Kleine Männlichen to the Kleine Scheidegg.  This hike is easy with children. The views are stunning and will take your breath away. Take the tram to the Kleine Männlichen , an experience by itself  and then hike to the Kleine Scheidegg , where you can take the train down  to  Grindelwald or hike part of the way . The train has several stops. Many tourists take the Jungfrau-Bahn to the top of the Jungfrau. I have done it twice and it is beautiful and expensive. Don't go up unless it is a clear day.

Originally, we had planed to do some additional hiking in the Val de Herens, but there was nothing but rain in the forecast, so hiking was out. Instead, we decided to head for France, to the Burgundy to be precise. Here we are visiting some old haunts and doing some serious eating. Our five-hour drive took us through some scary mountain passes and our navigation system (we call her Missy) rerouted us over some very narrow roads because of the Tour de France. Mind you, it was drizzling rain and foggy part of the way. We made it and my sweetheart is taking a well-deserved nap before dinner. Foie gras.....here we come. 
The first night we stayed near Chagny at the Hostellerie du Chateau de Bellecroix, a place where the 15th century knights of Malta rested on the way to the Crusades. This old chateau has rooms in different buildings and beautiful grounds. We’ve stayed here before and I have to say it hasn't changed much. We had a circular tower room on the third floor of the main building. The room was small but fun for one night. The surroundings are stunning—an old-fashioned French hotel in the countryside. Our dinner was excellent, the foie gras was served with some fig jam and toast. The smoked salmon broiled on top of rich scalloped leek potatoes was also good. The creme brûlée made an excellent desert. We enjoyed our meal and and evening stroll around the castle. Nearby, in Chagny, is the Lamiloise, a three-star Michelin restaurant.

For me, Burgundy is the mecca of fantastic food where you want to eat everything. I love coming here and trying out new restaurants, charcuteries and patisseries. But oh my poor stomach and body tells me that enough is enough! This is a marathon of eating (the secret is in pacing yourself.) In other words, don't overdo it the first night. I did and now I'm paying the price, Alka Seltzer and peppermint tea to the rescue. 
The second day, we continued our trip through Burgundy via Puligny Montrachet, a small village with Chardonnay grapes. We had some good wine, but the food was mediocre. But we visited Beaune for a couple hours. This is a medieval town I fell in love with many moons ago. 
It is very touristy but charming town. We toured the hopitâl de Beaune, an old hospital for the poor from the 14th century. It is very interesting and worthy of a visit. As I was looking for a cappuccino and something sweet, I ran into a great patîsserie called Tavenet on 14 Place Carnot. My man loved tarte aux noix et caramel (caramel walnut tart), while I enjoyed a piece of apricot tart and took with me some macaroons and a gougere, a cheesy puff pastry served with wine tasting. It was superb.  

Two Great days in Alsace Lorraine
The drive from the Burgundy to Alsace Lorraine was easy on a quiet Sunday morning. We arrived in Riquewihr at our the Hotel le Schoenenbourg , a Best Western with air conditioning, a definite plus after last night’s hot room in a charming hotel with a small room above the kitchen where the mosquitos kept us awake. We had made the reservation a couple of days ago and this hotel still had some availability. It was the Bastille Day weekend and most hotels in the region were sold out. 
I liked our new hotel because it is within walking distance of one of the quaint medieval villages filled with Hänsel and Gretel houses, cellars bursting with wines of the regions, with festivals beautiful to look at and photograph. Riquewihr is a fairy tale setting. All three villages have some nice stores with pottery, sweets and embroidered fabric. It's a little kitschy, but cute. I have brought back some nice things over the years.  
For sweets, I like their pistachio-filled candy. We were able to watch the fireworks for Bastille Day from our hotel and before that, we watched the World Cup soccer final (where Germany won) and before that had a fabulous dinner sitting in a courtyard at  Restaurant Winstub Au Tire-Bouchon. My husband had the pork knuckle with sauerkraut and potatoes, with regional mustard. It was the best pork knuckle I ever had, soft and tender. The sauerkraut was great too, with nothing added and perfect with the pork. I ordered the duck breast and I got a huge one (the biggest I have ever seen) cooked medium rare with all the fat rendered from the skin. The sauce had pieces of orange in it and was served in a small glass. The dish came with a beet mash and a large serving of cheesy scalloped potatoes—very different from the ones I had a couple of days ago at the Bellocroix. This was a perfect meal in a perfect setting , especially when the French accordion player  serenaded us with some familiar songs and we started to sing along. It started to rain just as we finished dinner, so we went back to our hotel to watch the final soccer match and fireworks for Bastille Day from our window. Life is good.

The last day in Alsace we had lunch at the L'Auberge DE I'LL in Illhausen. I decided to post this culinary highlight of our trip in a separate post.  From Riquewihr, we drove to Assmanshausen, a village located on the Rhine River, an idyllic location lined with castles—remote and comfortable with outstanding wine and food. Assmanshausen is 10 km north of Rüdesheim. Instead of the tourist frenzy of Rüdesheim, enjoy the contemplative serenity of the northward  flowing Rhine. From here, you can take river cruises, vineyard walks, funicular rides above the hills. You can combine the three of them, see Bingen, go by the Lorelei and visit Rüdesheim. At night, you come back to the peaceful setting of the river and surrender yourself to the good wine and good food and watch the tourist boats (river cruises) go by.
We always stay at the Hotel Schön and take a room with a balcony on the river, sip a glass of Riesling and enjoy the setting. The hotel has a wisteria-covered veranda where you can enjoy a drink, a coffee or dinner and watch the sun set behind the hills. We enjoyed our delicious dinner on the patio and celebrated our last day before my husband went home and I continued my journey to visit my mom. 

Most of my traveling time is spent in Europe visiting my German family and taking care of my 91-year-old mother. So I'm super excited when I get to go somewhere else. Even though we live fairly close by, I had only been to Canada once a long time ago. I was happy when my husband planned a week-long trip to western Canada. 
So off we went, flying from San Francisco to Vancouver. My man was fascinated by the view of all the places we flew over, pointing out Mount Hood and Mount Rainier popping up through the clouds, Crater Lake and more. I read a book by Wally Lamb, She Comes Undone, and loved the short 2-hour flight. Compared to the usual 11 hours to Europe, no problem. 
Downtown Vancouver is a growing, international city with many fascinating places. Stanley Park is lovely and the Emily Carr totem poles are a must-see. If you have the time, go for a long stroll, but as we only had an hour, we had a taxi driver give us a quick tour. I had originally planned to eat at Bao Bai, a Chinese restaurant Ruth Reichl recommended. I'm a big fan of hers and read both her books and her blog. And she did such a fantastic job with Gourmet magazine. By the time we were ready to eat, it was too late for Bao Bai, so we ended up at Joe Fortes, dining on the roof top. The oysters there are outstanding and taste different from the ones in Santa Cruz and San Francisco. The food and ambiance were pleasant and we enjoyed our first evening in Canada.

The next day, we set out to go on a road trip to Lake Louise through the Rocky Mountains. Altogether we drove over 2070 km (1300 miles) on this trip and had a wonderful time. To be precise, my man drove (he loves driving) and I just took naps and enjoyed the scenery. From Vancouver, we drove to the town of Kamloops, where we stayed overnight twice—on the way up and back. Before Kamloops, we had lunch in the town of Merritt where I spotted a Japanese restaurant called Garden Sushi Japanese Restaurant. As it was my job to supply my driver with nourishment, we had a wonderful lunch, home cooking at its best. I get super excited when I run into good food. In Kamloops, we shared a horrible lamb burger on the way up, but had a great meal on the way down at Ric’s, a chain with about 20 restaurants. We ate in the one in downtown Kamloops called the Ric’s Mediterranean Grill. My man had a wonderful, tasty risotto with shrimp and prosciutto—creamy, rich and flavorful. I was very impressed and will try to get the recipe. I had a panko and crab-crusted piece of wild salmon with a leek risotto, also very good. Too bad we didn't find this place on the way up. Sorry, there are no pictures to post.

After a night in Kamloops, we drove to Lake Louise on the very scenic Trans Canada Highway, passing small towns and resorts. It was a loooong drive, over five hours. The scenery is lovely and we drove through several parks. The entire highway is a two-way road with lots of trucks (you have to love driving to do this). We reached Lake Louise around 4 pm. A stunning sight, this high mountain emerald lake took my breath away. It is surrounded by snow-covered mountains that reflect onto the lake. We stayed at the lodge on the lake, a Fairmont resort. All I wanted to do is be by the lake—I could not get enough of this panorama. When the almost full moon rose around 9:30 pm behind the mountain, illuminating the lake, it became a spiritual experience for me. Before the moonrise, the dim evening light did a shimmering dance of the mountains reflecting in the still water of the lake.

After two wonderful days on Lake Louise, we drove north on the Icefield Highway through Jasper Park. This was another breath-taking experience, with glaciers and high snow-covered mountains for miles and miles. We went on a steep 4-mile hike and had a wonderful day. Do not miss this if you are visiting this part of the world. 

 We ended our day in Jasper with a great meal at Evil Dave's. The coconut shrimp soup was delightful and had a real kick (as the waitress warned me). My Falafel dinner was good and my husband liked his bison meatloaf, a good choice for a place to eat in Jasper.
We drove back on Highway 5 to Vancouver, overnighting again in Kamloops. 
Jasper is a cute town and I hope to do this trip again one day, but will fly into Calgary to eliminate some of the driving. This trip was more a feast for the eye and the soul than for the belly, experiencing nature at its best. Life is good.

Keywords: Lake Louise, Jasper, Trans Canada road trip, Icefield Highway
by sunnycovechef

Marrakech is called the pearl of the South with its rich history and  ancient passages that transport you back in time, and challenge your senses in every way, shape and form.  This imperial town is like no other, with has something to offer for every traveler. One moment you're dodging motor scooters or donkey carts, and the next moment you are in a modern rooftop cafe drinking mint tea or cappuccino.  It is sheer madness and joy at the same moment, overwhelming and fascinating. I loved it. All the differing cultures and elements seem to get along with ease. Strolling through the Medina with walls that are hundreds of years old is like walking back in time, yet life continues much like it has for the past thousand years.

One of the most pleasurable things to do in Marrakech is to walk around the  seemingly endless maze of markets in the old part of town. It is easy to get lost. Every section has its own specialty such as spices, leather, kaftans, pottery and jewelry. The leather section was the most fascinating for me. Here, hides were being tanned and leather goods produced on the spot. The tanners have been here since the city was founded. One moment, there is the pleasant smell of rose oil in your nose, and the next moment you are knocked out by the foul, pungent smell of animals or hides being processed.

I was fortunate to spend five exciting days in Marrakech.  It was a great trip full of new people and new impressions. This trip awakened all my senses, introduced me to a new culture. I saw beautiful gardens and buildings, but most of all, I felt like I was transported back in time into a different world.  I have to thank my friends, Dietlinde and Monika, for this wonderful experience. Vielen Dank Ihr Beide.

Here I am sitting in the middle seat of an airplane for almost 11 hours flying to see my 91-year-old mother in Germany. Originally, I was going with my husband to Paris for week. We had rented an apartment and we were going to have fun in this beautiful city that we both love. Paris is our personal Disneyland. We go for the food, the arts, the parks—and the city. Instead of strolling through the Tuileries gardens and recovering from jet leg by soaking in the sun on a bench, I am taking  a solo trip to Germany to care of my mother who fell and is in the hospital. My heart did not allow me to do otherwise. Both my husband and I are very sad and disappointed. Could I really admire my favorite paintings and sculptures while my mom was being restrained? I could not.  Could I savor the culinary delight that Paris offers while my mom was confused and needed help? I could not.

When I moved to the United States many years ago, I had no idea of the complications that would arise years later. I love my new home and country. It has brought many joys and a wonderful life. I am grateful and thankful for that. 
Thankfully, I have a brother who made sure my mother in Germany was well taken care of. I help, and visit as much as I can. At this point in life, my mother needs more help and support. Until now, she has survived with the help of many people she lived with on the farm where she was born—both fortunate and lucky. But now it is getting complicated. 
This year, spring has come early to northern Germany. Looking out of my mother’s hospital room, there is a huge tree covered with pink blossoms. White asparagus is being harvested and sold, which is usually a May event. When I was here last year, it snowed the entire month of April. While in Germany, I ate in the cafeteria at the clinic and rehab center my mom was . I was thankful for the often decent food. I was also lucky enough to have a Tegut grocery store  (similar to Whole Foods) on the way to the hospital. My girlfriend, Monika, not only provided me with support and help in the German medical world (which is excellent by the way), but also cooked some delicious meals for me. Bless her kind and gentle heart, a true friend.
There were no gourmet meals, but I managed to find some great cheese, bread, and of baked goods (of course). Those little bakeries in Germany are my favorite. Here are some of my favorites: 

The last meal I prepared for my mom was white asparagus, which is in season right now and being sold at the local farmer’s market. My mom loves her asparagus with boiled potatoes, melted butter or hollandaise sauce, and ham.The local butcher shop had some great ham and packaged hollandaise sauce that was excellent. She enjoyed her meal.
Should you be so lucky and find fresh white asparagus, make sure you peel it correctly. Some people peel the asparagus twice just to make sure the woody outside is gone. So, don’t skimp on peeling away the outside. There are asparagus peelers in Germany that work beautifully. I did not peel away enough this time at is was annoying when I ate the asparagus. My blog has a recipe for white asparagus soup. 
While in Germany, I had a beautiful salad with an oil and vinegar vinaigrette, asparagus, strawberries and goat cheese.
After six weeks in Germany and a glorious trip to Marrakech, I’m back home in Santa Cruz. It feels good and I’m getting used to my normal life and enjoying it.